My father grew up in Baghdad, Iraq, and didn't buy into pop psychology. In fact, there was little or no Western element in his formative years. Whenever he mentions his childhood and talks about Western issues like calling bread a “loaf” or how he's quick to smoke Marlboro cigarettes (which he hated and never smoked with each other) It was interesting. For the first time, he noticed the movie and was very impressed by the dramatic music and the loud announcement in Arabic, “20th Century Fox.”
My father's upbringing included self-discipline, radical respect for father and mother, and a firm sense of responsibility for the household. He never told me he loved his mother and father, but I knew it from the stories he told about them. I didn't hear him tell my mom, “I love you!” But it was clear from his best behavior, his gestures big and small. He never said “I love you” to me, but I knew it in the core of my being.
I have something to confess. I am addicted to Starbucks and go there every day for a flat white. I know there are higher quality coffees on the market, but I actually love the water (I heard a director explain to potential baristas that the water passes through reverse osmosis 18 times) moment). Additionally, we have a rewards program. Simply put, I can say that I have many stars.
My father also loved espresso. During his long stay in the hospital, the last thing I wanted to do was bring him a Starbucks latte. And every day (mostly at night) after I get out of the hospital, I might kiss my dad on the forehead and say, “Ani, ohebet, occha!” (I love you in Hebrew.)
My father's funeral in Beit Shemesh, Israel was surreal. (Thanks to Rabbi Kalman Top of Beth Jacob Congregation, Israeli Consul General Hillel Newman, and her husband Alan for spending hours on the phone to check on my father on Monday morning's El Al flight. )
His funeral was preceded by a funeral service for Holocaust survivor Cantor Moshe Kraus, who was 100 years and 12 months old. Every Sunday, Klaus sang for Commander Josef Kramer, the Beast of Belsen, who saved his life with his beautiful voice. Many survivors of Bergen-Belsen remember Moshele's treasure trove of Yiddish and sacred music as saving their hope and religion in that dark, hellish place. After the struggle, he became Hazan, a leading official in Tzahar, the Israeli defense movement. And even though he lives in Ottawa and has no children, his funeral was standing room only.
It was very bittersweet to be reunited with my father's beloved sisters Daisy and Adina, his young brother Naim, and his fellow young adventurers, and Aliyah of Israel. It was heartwarming to see so many of my father's nieces and nephews, my mother's cousins, and so many friends taking time to mourn with us on a very popular Tuesday afternoon.
We seated Lord Shiva in Rehavia. The condo had a huge balcony surrounded by sentry palm wood, tall eucalyptus, and flowering plants, with views of the Russian Consulate and the white domes of the YMCA. My cousin Sarah Sassoon, a poet and youth e-book author, has a pot of lentil soup (a traditional mourner's meal) and essentially the most delicious rooster and simple white rice. He introduced me to the large tray that contained it.
It was on the third floor of an apartment building, and the front door was always fully open. But still, we were shocked when a man came in with two huge boxes of scorching hot breka and greeted us with the usual “Hamakom yanahem ochim”. (The place comforts you.) Just a common Israeli supplier. I really cried when I opened the cardboard box and saw a loving message from Beth Jacob.
Sephardim have a minhag where guests serve various meals at Lord Shiva to make bracha for the neshamah (souls) to make aliyah in heaven. Fortunately, food in Israel, especially in the summer, is incredibly delicious. Juicy watermelon, dark ripe cherries, and fleshy candy-like peaches. The chewy multi-grain bread I ate recently contained a flavorful yellow cheese. And it's one of the best “pitztims”, including pumpkin seeds, nuts, dried fruits, and even Japanese rice crackers. Every day, I may ship my son Ariel and nephew Yosef Yitzchak to Shuk Mahane Yehuda with a long-term record of the meals we purchase.
Our expensive family friend Lillian sent us a wonderful fruit platter. My good friend Shirley, a fellow contributor who contributed an appetizer tray full of Syrian kibbeh (made with bulgur and floor beef), rakumazin (Syrian floor beef mini pizzas), kuber, and fried rooster poppers He organized our long-term records. My mother's cousin Ilana introduced her homemade kaakat, a crispy, salty ring cracker historically served at mourning sites in Iraq.
Many guests introduced truffles and cookies. There were many long, thin chocolate babka (called crunch in Israel).
-Sharon
When Sharon came here again from Israel, she told me that she wanted to make Kuba Bamia and Kuba Schwandar for her father, Shloshim. Kuber is a general term for the shell casing around a meatball consisting of beef, lamb, or rooster breast, commonly made with bulgur, potatoes, or rice. But Sharon was talking about making kuber with semolina flour. It's very tedious and by no means easy to make.
On the appointed day, I went to Kajal Joseph and Sharon, our good friends Esther and Jazmin, and Kajal's resident chef Penina mixed semolina dough with Italian parsley, finely chopped onions, and spices. A business sized bowl of combined floor beef sat at the entrance.
I took my seat, overwhelmed by the duty before me. I was sure I might be there until midnight. But I forgot who I was dealing with earlier, these girls are tough inside the kitchen. Before we knew it, we were producing 360 Kubbahs, but Penina immediately froze them. Sharon repurposed the leftover meat filling into a giant tray of kebabs with eggs, potato starch, and extra spices.
While we were scrubbing our fingers, Esther already had an industrial-sized bowl of ma'amul dough (made with wheat flour and semolina flour and lightly flavored with orange blossom water) and some date paste. I had finished making one bowl with stuffing and another bowl with date paste. Stuffed with crushed nuts. We started an industrial line. Esther rolled the dough into balls for us. Jazmin stuffed hers with dates, I stuffed mine with nuts, pressed all the balls into fancy picket molds, and punched out 200 cookies. The smell of cookies baking in the oven was amazing. Meanwhile, Sharon and Penina were rolling date and nut balls in coconuts (considered one of her father's favorite snacks).
I took a deep breath and checked out my expensive and dedicated friends cooking together. I thought, “Oh, my family and neighbors were supposed to get together that day and prepare dinner together and bake together.”
Esther intended to continue, but we all protested. We all headed home for some well-deserved relaxation. I thought about what we accomplished. We made these difficult and traditional recipes with great ease and camaraderie. There was also some laughter.
On the morning of Sharon's father's memorial service, I entered Kahal Joseph's kitchen. Sharon and her daughter Alexandra had prepared four huge pots of stew on the fireplace. There were two pots of bright red-purple beet stew and two pots of deep tomato-colored okra and butternut squash stew. It was a magical sight to watch Sharon and Alexandra drop all the kubah we made into two large pots. (To accommodate vegetarian company, Sharon saved a small pot of all the vegan stews.)
Sharon and I arrange a long buffet desk. Inside the center was a decorative bicycle filled with bright flowers (a symbol of the bicycle that Sharon's father rode until he was in his 80s). We had fried fish and grilled chicken, white rice and Persian dill rice, and lots of salads. However, Kuber was a huge hit for Ashkenazi and Sephardic alike. Everyone appreciated this special meal. Quite a few people informed us that Kuber took them to their grandmother's kitchen again.
The dessert desk was filled with recently made fruits, dates, dried fruits and nuts, and Alexandra's freshly baked brownies. Our maamuru cookies made with flowers were amazing. The crispy dough was dusted with powdered sugar, giving it just the right amount of crunch and the perfect orange blossom scent. The dates inside melted easily and were delicious. They disappeared within minutes.
Usually we prepare dinner because we have to feed our family and friends. But our food generally has a deeper purpose. Our objective was to honor Sharon's father's memories and prepare his favorite Iraqi dishes. I am very happy with my expensive Spice Woman, Sharon, for carrying on the legacy and traditions of my grandmothers.
I truly know that blessings come from our fingers and are transferred to the meals we make. When you cook with intention and love in your heart, perfection is achieved. Why not express your love with a meal full of flavor and texture?
I truly know that blessings come from our fingers and are transferred to the meals we make. When you cook with intention and love in your heart, perfection is achieved. Why not express your love with a meal full of flavor and texture?
It was a special evening in honor of David Ben Raphael and Rosa's Neshama.
You may be able to really feel the love in the room.
—Rachel
Okra and butternut stew
additional 1/4 cup virgin olive oil
1 large onion (chopped)
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon candy pink paprika
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon finely ground black pepper
1 teaspoon salt
Finely chop 6 cloves of garlic
2 large tomatoes (finely chopped)
1 28 oz can crushed tomatoes
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons sugar
Juice of 2 giant lemons
4 cups water
2 tablespoons of consumable powder
1 medium butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into 2-inch cubes.
Frozen okra 400g 1 bag
Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add onions and fry until transparent. Add turmeric, paprika, garlic powder, pepper and salt and stir well.
Add garlic and fry for 2 minutes.
Add tomatoes, crushed tomatoes, and tomato paste. Stir effectively and bring to a boil.
Add sugar, lemon juice and water. Stir effectively.
Add consommé powder and butternut pumpkin and mix well. Cover the pot and reduce the heat. Allow to simmer for 20 minutes.
Add okra and simmer for another 10 minutes.
Enjoy the roasted rice with white rice.
Esther's Ma'amr Recipe
material
2 cups of all-purpose flour
1 cup semolina flour
1/2 teaspoon rose water
1 cup unsalted butter or margarine or coconut oil
nut filling
1 pound walnuts, floor
2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar
1 tablespoon melted unsalted butter or margarine or coconut oil
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon orange blossom water
Entering the date
1 pound pitted dates
1/2 cup walnuts
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon orange blossom water
Preheat oven to 350°F.
Combine the flour and semolina in a large bowl and mix until you get the consistency of breadcrumbs.
Add the rosewater and stir into the butter, then add 1/2 teaspoon of warm water.
Knead the dough effectively and store it in the refrigerator until ready to use.
Assemble the ingredients by combining the ingredients.
Divide the dough into 4 equal parts.
Work on one section at a time, layering the remaining sections as you work.
Pinch a ball of dough the size of a walnut and press in the center with your finger to create a 1/2-inch indentation.
Fill the cavity with 1/4 teaspoon of the filling and seal the pastry.
If using a ma'amour mold, press the highest part of the pastry firmly against the mold and gently tap the mold on a hard surface to release the pastry.
Place the puff pastry on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper.
Bake for 10 to 12 minutes or until the pastry is lightly browned on the underside and white on top.
Sprinkle the cookies with confectioners' sugar before serving.
Sharon Gomparts and Chef Rachel Mkies have been friends since high school. The Sephardic Spice Women initiative grew out of repeated collaborations at the Sephardic Academic Middle in Jerusalem. follow them
On Instagram @sephardicsspicegirls and Sephardic Spice SEC Meals on Facebook. Website sephardicsspicegirls.com/full-recipes.
